| MESSAGE BOARD POSTS 2 by Dawnrest |
| MESSAGE BOARD POSTS 2 by Dawnrest |
| ANSWER reply to Ruben (New Boot) by Dawnrest Good Question. P.O.R. stands for `Producer of Record`. When earned it is used after a dog's name by T.L. in his periodical and by others who allegedly produced at least three Champions. R.O.M. stands for `Register of Merit` and is used with many breeds, while meaning many things. For this breed it's used when earned, by the S.D.J. and by others, following a dog's name who allegedly produced at least three Champions and was later changed to follow a dog's name who allegedly produced at least four Champions. One Grand Champion counted as two Champions. Many producers were bred much more than the average dog to gain these titles, so look for the best producers who were bred the least. These titles can cause an over abundance of dogs, extinction of various lines, and permanent damage of all kinds to the breed. Many of the oldest and more experienced breeders have dog's who earn few if any producing titles. Many of the best producers and best dogs of all time have no title and are often bred by or down from experienced breeders. Percentages alone prove the best dogs of all will never be known. This dog could be on some yard in the next town and nobody knows him except his owner. It has been known that some producers earn their title by todays breeder mass producing pups or using multiple dogs under one name to produce a large quantity for higher percentages. Once the title is achieved, they are able to sell much more quantity for more money, by or out of them and their offspring. The less knowledgeable are more likely to aquire dogs from these breeders or have more in their dogs ancestry. The periodicals in turn make more money, from more advertising. It has also been known that some have worked as teams, to make more money, easy money, from the less knowledgeable. So above all else, look for HONEST Pedigrees, Champions, Grand Champions, P.O.R.'s, R.O.M.'s, Breeders, and a deep down love of the breed. HONEST BULL DOGS! |
| Could you put up Dawnrest ( Mt. Man's) (Les') (Little Sister) on pedigree on line reply to Spiderg by Dawnrest You now have to pay to use online pedigrees. I would like to go in and do alot of work fixing and improving peds as I have never been in there. I would do it for free but I won't pay. Until the many peds are corrected there I will continue trusting the old fashion ways and the ADBA. It sure is interesting to see how many females some of the well known studs have been bred to. Percentage wise some of those dogs sure are poor producers. If the dogman and the dog are as good as assumed, the rom's should be way higher. How many points should a dog who has sired 1000 pups earn or a dam who whelped toward 200 pups? The rom list could in many cases be from quantity and mass production breeders. You and I are both lucky in that "CH"HOMER" sired much less pups then most rom's. Although as with most of the well known dogs, breedings and offspring no one ever heard of keep coming out of the woodwork. Lets say I was able to put that pedigree online. Then someone else makes one small error such as a comma in the wrong place or leaves it out, next thing you know the pedigree is open or following the wrong ancestry. What happens if I put Edward's "BIT-O-HONEY" and there is two with identical names, a headache. You would have to write one different and what if there was five with the same name. Then the next person comes along not knowing and writes the name another way. I recently talked to T.U. who is competent at putting pedigrees online. He says it's only good for advertising your own pedigrees, which makes sense for now. The best thing is to make your own pedigrees or search so nobody can alter it. Sure would enjoy working to permanently correct some pedigrees there. The APBT Pedigree Database is growing and works fairly well. |
| Ear Infection reply to Dusty by Dawnrest Here are some ideas, First make sure the air can get inside the ear. If the ear flap covers it, it can easily allow more bacteria to grow. You can try taping the ears on the head. Assuming its an external ear infection, the most common bacteria would be corynebacterium, coliforms, diptheroids, staphylococcus or streptococcus. Blood and serum can cause the infection to worsen. Do not use anything to irrigate the ear as this can cause more swelling. If you do, use mineral oil only. If you bathe the dog use cotton balls to plug the ears. Next it would be advisable to use a otoscope to make sure no foreign object is lodged in the ear canal. If so, alligator biceps or an ear spoon may be useful. An otoscope may also help in case its an inner ear infection. I don't know if the head/ear is being held more to one side or if he/she scratches/shakes his head, but if so, this can inturn cause hematoma. I'm betting its otitis externa, and is painful. In really bad cases this can cause the ear canal to become blocked. The discharge being a brown cerumen, possibly resembling shoe polish, can be associated with staphylococcus or pityrosporum. Trauma, ear mite infestation, foreign objects or ear ulcers are the likely culprit although to be sure someone should see the animal. The animal may need to be tranquilized if necessary for proper treatment. Cultures may be needed to prescribe proper antibiotics. In this case cleaning if possible with a warm water and germicidal detergent such as betadine, some would say hydrogen peroxide, then carefully dried. Next apply an antibiotic corticosteroid ointment. If it is inflamed then apply a thin layer of astringent lotion. This should be repeated every day for a week and then evaluated. If you suspect ear mange mites, otodectes cynotis, use the mineral oil as I stated in the beginning to clean and remove mites. You can check for mites by using a black piece of paper and putting a culture on it, use a magnifying glass and see if you see tiny moving white dust particles, this is an old trick so you probably will never have heard this. Use an acaricide such as dimethyl phthalate or as I would recommend, rotenone, both are readily available. This should be repeated every 2-3 days for a couple weeks. Lets hope it is not more severe like a tumor, penetration to the ear drum, fluid in the typanic cavity and so on. If the dog shows signs of incoordination due to meningitis or abscess which can lead to death, chloramphenicol, ampicillin, or tetracycline may be needed. This story goes on and on without seeing the dog. Hope this helped, I see you logged in under the name Slick about harnesses before. But Dusty or Slick, I'm writing this to help you or anybody find a beginning solution to such a problem. Wishing you the best of luck at your findings. I personally have been quite lucky in that area. What type of ears does your dog have, ie; miscarried, full drop, button, rose, etc... because semi pricked or pricked ears would be good to have for this problem. Cedarwood Oil w/ Eucalyptus Oil/Pennyroyal reply to Wheese by Dawnrest Another natural aid for minor ear infections and ear mites is Oils of Cedarwood. You can combine Cedarwood Oil with Pennyroyal and Eucalyptus Oil. These are natural and organic. Ingredients such as Salicylic and Boric Acid or Sulfur in alcohol or propylene glycol can be used as a base. Another is Citronella Oil which is now being used in shampoos for parasite and odor control. As long as you're able to diagnose proper these can be an inexpensive treatment and you can buy brands containing all of the above, with and without Citronella Oil, for about 6 dollars. Cedarwood contains a natural arsenic which is great for parasitic infestation. Tea tree oil is natural and a great addition to this thread. |
| ~HOWARD HEINZL~ 4-30-1914 to 10-28-1989 by Dawnrest HOWARD HEINZL WAS BORN IN CHICAGO. HE WAS A DOGMAN FROM ALMOST THE TIME HE GOT HIS FIRST DOG AT THE AGE OF TEN. HOWARD MOVED TO TEMPE, ARIZONA IN 1939. HE BUILT A REPUTATION FOR BEING ONE OF THE BEST BREEDERS IN THE COUNTRY. MANY OF THE BEST DOGS THAT EVER LIVED WERE ON HOWARDS YARD AT ONE TIME OR ANOTHER. IN THE 1970'S AND 80'S HE TALKED ALOT ABOUT TUDOR'S DIBO, CONSIDERED BY MANY TO BE ONE OF THE BEST STUD DOGS TO EVER LIVE AND HOW DIBO USE TO FOLLOW HIM AROUND THE YARD AS HE FED HIS OTHER DOGS. HEINZL'S GRINGO, HEINZL'S CLANCY, TUDOR'S WHITE ROCK, CLOUSE'S BALDY, FRANK FITZWATER'S GOLDIE, TUDOR'S LUCKY (DIME/DIBO), TUDOR'S MINNIE AND MANY MORE WERE INFLUENCED BY THE WORK OF HOWARD HEINZL. YOU CAN CLEARLY SEE THAT JOHN P. COLBY AND FOR MANY MANY YEARS LOUIS B. COLBY HAD A GREAT INFLUENCE IN HIS DOGS. LOUIS AND HOWARD WERE GOOD FRIENDS NOT ONLY IN THE DOGS, BUT IN GAMECOCKS AS WELL. HOWARD GOT SOME GOOD PYLES FROM LOUIS, SET ASIDE ANIMALS AND THESE MEN WERE FRIENDS EITHER WAY. THEY WERE HONEST MEN WITH HONEST BRED BULL DOGS. HOWARD'S WIFE WAS VIRGINIA, A REDHEAD, WHO OFTEN KEPT TOY BREEDS AS HOUSE PETS. LOUIS EVEN GOT A COUPLE DOGS BACK FROM HOWARD WHEN HE CAME HOME FROM THE SERVICE. HOWARD, JUST LIKE MANY DOG MEN, TRAVELED GREAT LENGTHS TO VISIT THE COLBY FAMILY. WHILE THE HEINZL BLOOD MAY NOT BE THE QUALITY IT WAS UNTIL THE 1970'S, THE OLD CROSSES DOWN FROM HIS DOGS ARE STILL DOING FINE AND HIS NAME WILL NOT BE FORGOTTEN, THE REVEREND HOWARD HEINZL. BY DAWNREST. HERE'S A QUOTE FROM HOWARD, "I'D RATHER BREED TO A DOG WHO HAD FOUR HONEST GRANDPARENTS, EVEN IF HE WOULDN'T TAKE HOLD, THAN A PIT ACE I DIDN'T KNOW THE BREEDING ON". HOWARD HEINZL. Heinzl blood alive and well reply to Scratch by Dawnrest Every SUNDAY men and family would meet at Heinzls pit for various contests. This went on for many years, Hence, the REVEREND. Howard owned dogs through the years consisting of many lines. The most consistant seemed to be the DIME and DIBO crosses. While he owned many dogs which don't reflect his name, it is true those Tudor's LUCKY dogs carried themselves well. CH PANAMA RED reflects this blood well and GRINGO reflects Howard well. Heinzl, a man who invisioned quality breedings of his dogs, obtained some of that vision from breeding equine. He liked his roosters and loved his horses. The Reverend Howard Heinzl. |
| GOOD DOG FOOD PROTEIN CONSPIRACY by Dawnrest I'VE WRITTEN THIS IN RESPONSE TO THE OTHER DOG FOOD POSTS TO HELP IN BETTER UNDERSTANDING DOG FOOD AND "HIGH PROTEIN" !!! EACH YEAR DOG FOOD CONSUMERS ARE TOLD HOW CANINE NUTRITIONAL RESEARCH CORPORATIONS HAVE SPENT MILLIONS BACKING UP THERE RESEARCH. ONE MAY ASSUME SUCH AMOUNTS SHOULD INCREASE ABILITY, WORKING YEARS, PROLONG LIFE, ETC.. THE TRUTH AND BENEFITS FROM THIS RESEARCH IS A MUCH MORE PROFITABLE BOTTOM LINE. "HIGH PROTEIN" ??? HIGH PROTEIN CAUSES BIODIGESTABLE PROBLEMS, KIDNEY STRESS, GROWTH AND CANCER DISEASE, ETC.. BEET PULP, SODIUM BENTONITE, ETC. ARE IMPLEMENTED INTO DOG FOODS TO HIDE AND COVER THE EFFECTS BUT THESE PRODUCTS CAN'T CAMOUFLAGE LONG TERM DELETERIOUS AND DETERIORATING EFFECTS. "HIGH PROTEIN" ??? PROTEIN IS A THIRD RATE FORM OF ENERGY! CARBS AND FATS ARE UTILIZED FOR ENERGY BEFORE PROTEIN IS PUT TO WORK. BUILDING TISSUE AND MENDING TISSUE REQUIRES ENZYMES, REST, AND AGAIN HIGH CARBS. AND FATS. THESE ESSENTIALS ARE NEEDED FOR PROTEIN TO WORK EFFICIENTLY. DAIRY, POULTRY, RED MEATS AND ORGANS ARE HELPFUL TO MEND TISSUE, AS THEY CONSIST OF 18% TO 22% PROTEIN. THIS PERCENTAGE OF PROTEIN ENCOURAGES PROPER DIGESTION, MINIMUM KIDNEY STRESS AND MINIMIZES EXCESSIVE GAS AND GUT RANCIDITY. A CARBOHYDRATE PRODUCES FOUR CALORIES AS DOES A GRAM OF PROTEIN AND A GRAM OF FAT PRODUCES NINE CALORIES. "HIGH PROTEIN" ??? THE BIG BUISINESS CONSPIRACY HAS CONVINCED LARGE AMOUNTS OF THE PLANETS DOG FOOD CONSUMERS AND THE AMERICAN PUBLIC THAT MORE PROTEIN IS BETTER. THEY HAVE SUBJECTED GREAT AMOUNTS OF TIME PROVING THE MERITS OF VARIOUS ALL NATURAL DRY FOODS, SOME EVEN USE NATURE AND NATURAL PRINTING ON DOG FOOD BAGS OR NATURAL SOUNDING BRAND NAMES. THIS IS IMPROPER IF THEY CONTAIN ONE THIRD MORE PROTEIN THAN NATURAL DAIRY, VEGETATION AND MEAT PRODUCTS AS THE PERCENTAGES SHOULD HAVE TO BE NATURAL AS WELL. IN NATURE, FOODS ARE WELL HYDRATED, SO DRY ISN'T NATURAL! "HIGH PROTEIN" ??? HIGH CARBS AND LOW PROTEIN DERIVED FROM DAIRY PRODUCTS, VEGETATION AND LONG TERM FASTING CAUSES MINOR FLUCTUATION IN SERUM ALBUMEN LEVEL OR BLOOD PROTEIN LEVELS. "HIGH PROTEIN" ??? REMEMBER, IF YOU ARE BUYING DOG FOOD WITH MEAT INCLUDED, "IT IS MOST LIKELY MEAT NOT FIT FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTION", I CAN NOT EMPHASIS THIS ENOUGH. IF YOUR BAGGED DOG FEED DOES NOT HAVE MEAT ADDED THATS GOOD, SO TRY INTERGRATING SAFE MEAT PRODUCTS, ORGAN AND MUSCLE MEAT INTO HIGH CALORIE DRY FEED, THEN HYDRATE. "HIGH PROTEIN" = BIG NUMBER - SMALL BENEFIT - BIG BUCKS !!! IF YOUR DOG FEED IS HIGH IN PROTEIN IT IS NOT NATURAL. FOR THOSE WHO FEED HUNTING, SPORTING, AND WORKING CANINE ATHLETES, AND ARE NOT SPONSORING DOG FOOD COMPANIES, CONVENIENCE AND PRACTICALITY WILL ALSO BE OF SECONDARY IMPORTANCE IF YOUR IN THE KNOW. COMMERCIAL DOG FOOD IS A BIG BUISINESS AND CHOOSING THE RIGHT BRAND FOR THE RIGHT REASONS IS IMPORTANT. THIS IS AN HONEST WAY TO IMPROVE THE QUALITY OF COMMERCIAL DOG FOOD AND OLD MOTHER HUBBARD - "WELLNESS" IS NOW AS CLOSE TO THE IDEAL DOG FOOD OF THE FUTURE AS ANY BRAND AS MORE POINT IN THIS DIRECTION. GOOD LUCK FEEDING AND MAINTAINING YOUR DOGS HEALTH AND NUTRITIONAL NEEDS! Makes sense to me reply to Jeff and G Skull by Dawnrest More Dog Food info., When searching for quality feed be watchful of meat by-products as they are likely not carefully handled. High quality or costly feeds should not contain animal fat or poultry fat in place of products such as beef fat or lamb meal. They should not contain BHA, BHT, Ethoxyquin, Artificial Color, Artificial Preservatives such as Science Diet Prescription foods, corn syrup, sucrose, ammoniated glycyrrhizin, or propylene glycol to retain moisture etc. and definately shouldn't contain all of the above. I am not in any way affiliated with Old Mother Hubbard and the Wellness dog feeds. The Wellness Super 5 Mix contains 3 protein sources topping the ingredients, the lamb is hormone free, filtered water is used in food production, the food is baked with probiotics and prebiotics added after baking, more kitchen sink formulating with good amounts of fruit, vegetables, herbs and supplements. Every type of Wellness feed has similar quality devotion. For everyone who can try or use feed of this quality thats great, for those who can't for what ever reason there are other ways to keep your dog or dogs fairly healthy. |
| Petronelli's "FOX" 7xw reply to Bejamins (stagnee514) by dawnrest Its good to see someone searching for Petronelli blood. FOX was a 7xw and he is in Dawnrest blood but its such a small percentage. I've seen people linebreeding Fox in the past and Petronelli had some good dogs in Mass.. Good luck finding what your looking for, Petronelli has never been known as a quantity producer. He is known as a man with winning game dogs and he did it himself. You won't hear much about him, but there is plenty to be told, most will be forgotten. Much of the good old blood and strains are being lost to so many new comers chasing the new large quantity bred dogs. Its a shame to see so many lines and strains being run down and replaced by the same multiple bred dogs in every state. Everyone is winning, losing and breeding off the same few dogs, almost. Let us know what else you find. Your on the right track. Petronelli dogs reply to Bejamins (stagnee514) by Dawnrest Limey kennels has some Petronelli blood, check them out. Limey's TUG and NELIS is where to look. |
| Keep by woodoggy (herrod) you talk about a pre-keep i read it but what a keep im on my 2nd week and is under weight he is at 47 need to be at 48 all bran purina one and vitamins 1 lbs of purina half of bran and 48oz of water and 3 mile walk at good pace what im i doing wrong need your help and fast thxs Keep reply to woodoggy (herrod) by suggadaddy try adding some rice 2 u're feed i cant tell u how much but u have time 2 figure it out good luck ( try 1/4 cup ) if not add a 1/4 of feed unless u wanna try a slice of wheat bread . any 1 u try check the weight 6 hours b 4 set time . get it? good luck at u're hunt Keep... reply to woodoggy (herrod) by Sans (sanspeur) I don't know where you got your info fm, but feeding Purina 1 Kibble would be the last thing I'd be doing. Do yourself a favor, OK? This second week, use LESS kibble each day. Get some beef chunks, barley, carrots, a knuckle bone (to make the broth), add some garlic POWDER, NOT salt, & cook w/8-9 cups of water at slow boil. Place the food in ziplocs, store in freezer, but weigh each one so they're as equal as you can get. The broth? Also put in ziplocs, freeze them as well, also weighing so they're equal. Week two on your roadwork, increase one mile daily; 5 on, 2 off, until you reach the end of week four, where you should be around at least 15-16 mi per day. Week five, decrease ONE mile, until 2 days b4 showtime, then a casual walk (1 mi) to clean em out, rest em up. In addition to this roadwork, you should mill them, starting around :20 working up to the end of week four to approx 2 hrs, then taper back down just like the roadwork, at :20 clips in week five. Be sure to include in this milling, pre/post rubdowns, but ALWAYS rub TOWARDS the heart to increase circulation... If you don't have a mill, get your bike out, take him/her to the track on a long lead (12-15')& go at least 20 laps (5 mi); 330 yd sprints, 110 yd lopes or trots...Try to go late at night or very early morning to avoid other dawgs... These are the basics, but you should also get bloodwork done every two weeks (week 3 & 5)to see where your counts are. Its too late to deworm, so I hoped you did that prior to your keep. Keep reply to woodoggy by Jay tuna or butter milk and wheat bread or chicken broth give the dog how much he is under weight watch hes weight evey 3 to 6 hours any other ? give me a hollar # Prekeep is not the keep reply to Keep by Bet & Co. the prekeep is to find the proper weight n gain knowledge needed when the chosen keep begins. much different then a keep. did u forget the meat or were you treatin it as a keep and not a prekeep. it seems men think there the same. |
| Brood Spectrum Wormer reply to wutang by Dawnrest There are many variations of canine worms. The proper wormer should be used only as needed or scheduled. Many men use Valbazen as a brood spectrum wormer instead of others such as the closely related Safeguard, and give just under the dosage required due to the fact dogs don't get liver flukes. This product is much less expensive and men have been using it in these areas for 9 years now with seemingly good results, however some worm medicine used for canines is not cleared for that purpose. It is not safer, just less expensive and should not be used for pups. Pyrantel pamoate is still the number one choice for common roundworm and hookworm in adults and pups. Droncit is still a top choice of vets but may require a prescription. You can buy Pyrantel Pamoate for humans as pinworm medicine. It is much less expensive then say Nemex II and much stronger, thereby requiring less product. If your positive it's just roundworms you may want to use the safest of old wormers, Piperazine. Ivermectin (Ivomec) is a brood spectrum wormer which is also used as heartworm preventative and is now less expensive under another brand name. It has been used with success for treating ear mites and mange mites if one knows the right scheduled dosage. There are still other species of parasites requiring other medicines. If you find one of those parasites I'll help you. Truly safe wormers probably don't work well at this point. Garlic, Eucalyptus and other natural and organics were said to work 100 years ago. I'm kind of old fashion so maybe a younger individual would know if there is a safer product that works well today. This is a start in helping you. |
| Understanding Canine Instincts & Remedies reply to E.B.L. knls by Dawnrest I answered some of these questions in the 1st part of the book as it was being compiled in the 1970's and 80's. (1) Being canivorous, why would a dog want to eat grass? The answer can be quite simple. It is usually from a lack of roughage in their diet. However, it can be from a lack of certain vitamins. Although these are likely sources, there is another; when a dog has an upset stomach, even if he lives in the wild, he may eat grass. This in turn causes vomiting and can be used as a defense for them similar to ipecac for humans. The bad thing is, the grass can cause more stomach problems. Feeding something such as boiled onion in their diet could cause the effect of eating grass. One would first try adding proper vitamins with a small amount of roughage to the diet. (2) Stool eating is called Coprophagia. It is a instinct to keep predators away from the den by hiding the aroma. Another common reason is simply they like the taste of their own or another dogs stool because they contain partially digested feed. If this becomes a habit, it can be helped by increasing the feed quality and adding meat tenderizer to aid in digestion. If one adds alfalfa to the diet it will create a disagreeable taste and odor. A dog can catch many diseases from this so always keep feces picked up, for asthetic reasons and because they carry multiple germs and parasites. Scheduled wormings is a must for healthy dogs. (3) Why does a dog scratch and dig the ground after defacating? This is a very interesting question and a good subject to better understand dogs. A truly instinctive dog may do this to disturb the earth around the waste. This causes a separation which then causes fertilization of new growth. More important is the fact, they leave a visual and identity presence from their sweat glands. These glands are located between their toes. While they have other forms of marking their territory, this is just one. Much more could be written on these subjects, but this gets down to the nitty gritty. |
| Good food! reply to G Skull by Dawnrest Your pup must be really happy, awesome feed. A 33# should be able to consume closer to 2 cups (soaked) and do fine, because 40#'s do, even if she's active. You may want to try cutting back on the feed and watch the calcium derivatives, too much is not good at all, even in a growing animal. It is fine to feed 22% protein adult diet when most of the growth is obtained in a few months. It is also ok to feed certain pup foods to an adult, especially feeds as good as Wellness. I think most people would do better on it than about anything they eat, j/k. If it's Wellness, she will do good on adult at anytime too. Many are using adult feed for pups and praising that company already, sweet potato, they love it, they don't spend so much time worrying about the next feeding, and no beet dust, etc.. Lots of boarding facilities are changing to Wellness as their clientel are demanding it. Feeds are changing everywhere because Wellness has grown so fast and they have to compete, some have tried to replicate Wellness, none are baked and without hidden fillers as of yet. And the collecting forms of Wellness ingredients are unmatched. You should be seeing two firm stools per day, if fed only once per day. Have you been soaking the feed? Or adding anything else? To a trained sporting eye, they should be lean to be healthy, able to count the first ribs, with a defined rib cage and brisket. To the untrained eye, fat and cobby will look strong, rugged, healthy and impressive. They should only look this way near cold seasons, lean and fast all other times. Try more exercise, less feed, more moisture. You will have to take the feeding amount down to the lesser amount slowly over the next few weeks. Also try Gimborn Rich Health---Brewers Yeast with garlic, it's about $10 for 4 lbs. of powder, it's a great product, hard to find sometimes and sells fast. How is the overall health, sometimes the climate changes or alot of rain can effect this a bit. More clues and I'll help. It sounds like she's getting more than needed? |
| 1.87% Ivermectin reply to wutang by Dawnrest Many people use paste wormers although they are more useful for horses (equine). I've seen country vets use them for dogs too. That is a brood spectrum type same as Equimectrin, Eqvalan, Equine Ivermectin, Ivercare, Generic Ivermectin, and Ivermectin Paste. It is better than Quest and as useful as liquid Ivermectin brands. Pastes cost more in the long run though. Zimectrin is a good brand name of paste wormers. It is a relatively safe wormer. You can save to almost the generic cost by using 'Equine Ivermectin' brand name paste. I don't use paste wormers but know plenty who do with no complaints. |
| Help reply to Jeramiah (Lytedog) by Dawnrest If they're perfect circular shaped, dime or nickel sized or often other shapes on animals surrounded by rough scaly edges adjoining the hair roots, depending on the dogs skin pigments, you may want to shave one to study. After, dispose of hair properly and bleach all or as many contacted areas as possible. If so, it is likely fungus related and contagious. Do not touch with your skin or allow in contact with anything. It is easy to treat, and a follow-up with certain vitamins, such as G-Skulls reccomendation of clovite conditioners is helpful. Treatments such as (1)FUNGISAN-a non toxic, non irritating liquid, (2)IODINE-a non irritating liquid or similar products such as (3)Blue Lotion or (4)Betadine etc., or (5)Happy Jack SKIN BALM-a medicine for fungi, or other equally good products that promote healing as such, can be applied and should be used until the hair begins new growth. (6)GOODWINOL or (7)SEBBAFON - DERMATOLOGIC shampoos bactericidal and germicidal and antifungal helps treat and restore skin texture and pH with emolient activity, keratolytic activity for removing NECROTIC CELLS, debris and to help minimize irritation. If the cause is something else, there is a good chance these will still help and (8)proper nutrition will be a benefit as well. (9)One more thing, the type of collar, leather is not as harsh on certain Terrier coats. (10)Other causes may be fleas, allergies or insect bites. Hope all works out. Dawnrest EDIT INFO., ringworm is not a parasite, it is a fungi, plant related. Some types of fungi (less than half) show up under black lights as a florescent green color. |
| Wellness Ingredients Example reply to Taylor Bros. by Dawnrest This is an example of ingredients in one of the Old Mother Hubbard (Wellness) dog foods. Lamb, Lamb Meal, White Fish, Ground Brown Rice, Ground Barley, Oatmeal, Rye Flour, Ground Millet, Amaranth, Flax Seed, Canola Oil (preserved with Rosemary, Vitamin C & E), Dried Peas, Dried Carrots, Whole Sweet Potatoes, Whole Apples, Whole Blueberries, Whole Clove Garlic, Alfalfa Leaf, Yucca Schidigera, Lactobacillus Plantarum, Enterococcus Faecium, Lactobacillus Casei, Lactobacillus Acidophilus, Chicory Extract, Glucosamine, Chondroitin Sulfate, Beta-Carotene, Potassium Chloride, Zinc Proteinate (a chelated source of Zinc), Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate, Vitamin E Supplement, Copper Proteinate (a chelated source of Copper), Copper Sulfate, Niacin Supplement, Manganese Sulfate, Manganese Proteinate ( a chelated source of Manganese), Sodium Selenite, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin A Acetate, Riboflavin Supplement, Calcium Iodate, Vitamin B-12 Supplement, Vitamin D-3 Supplement, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Mononitrate, Folic Acid. The process to make Wellness is another story. There all trying to compete with this now, none are baking the goodness in or collecting the ingredients like Old Mother Hubbard Wellness. |
| DOG - Pet Food - The Real Story by Dawnrest A homeopath of our acquaintance, who specializes in animal health, recently reported that nearly all of her new cases are dogs and cats with cancer. This is a most unusual and alarming trend, she told us. One of the reasons American dogs and cats are getting very sick can be found in the pet foods they eat every day. The realities of animal health aren’t much different than human health: if you consume a diet of toxins, eventually you will get terribly sick. Despite the appealing blandishments of pet food advertisements with their claims of providing "complete and balanced nutrition," if you’re not exceedingly circumspect, you may end up feeding your pet chicken heads, road kills, spoiled or moldy grains, cancerous material cut from slaughterhouse animals, tissue high in hormone or pesticide residues, and even shredded Styrofoam packaging, metal ID tags and minced flea collars. Don’t expect the food label to be any true guide to the product’s contents. The list of ingredients on that bag of dry pet food or can of "meat" can mask the toxic horrors behind innocuous-sounding phrases such as "meat meal," "bone meal," and "meat by-products." It’s the substances you don’t know about in that can of pet food that may sicken or even kill your pet. Rendering Garbage Into Pet Food—Rendering is the process of grinding up and then melting down or cooking scrap material from animals. The final products of this process—meat and bone meal and squeezed-out-fats—are sold primarily to pet food companies. The list of materials that go into the rendering process is extensive and horrific. When cattle, sheep and poultry are slaughtered for human consumption, the parts deemed unsuitable for eating—heads (including growth hormone implants in cattle), skin, fat containing pesticide residues, toenails, hair or feathers, joints, hooves, stomach and bowels—are rendered. Other animal parts sent to rendering plants include cancerous tissues, worm-infested organs, contaminated blood and blood clots. Compounding these toxins, slaughterhouses add carbolic acid and fuel oil to these remnants as a way of marking these foods as unfit for human consumption. Slaughterhouses aren’t the only source for animals that end up rendered. Animals classified as "4-D" (dead, diseased, dying and disabled)—that is, too unhealthy for human consumption—are rendered. These include animals with residues of antibiotics, such as chloramphenical and sulfamethazine, that are commonly used in meat production. Road-kill animals and some deceased zoo animals are also sent to rendering plants. A report in the San Francisco Chronicle (February 19, 1990) presented evidence that dead pets from animal clinics and shelters are carted away to be rendered—with their name tags and flea collars intact. Other items tossed into the rendering "soup pot" are rancid grease from restaurants and supermarket meats that are no longer fresh (including their Styrofoam and shrinkwrap packaging). All of this material is slowly ground up at the rendering plant, then chipped or shredded, and cooked for up to an hour at 220 degrees F to 270 degrees F. The fat or tallow separates during the cooking and is removed. What’s left over is then pressed to remove all moisture and crushed into what is misleadingly called "bone meal" or "meat meal." Meat and poultry by-products, another major category of pet food ingredients, are the unrendered parts of the animal left over after slaughter, everything deemed unfit for human consumption. In cattle and sheep, this includes the brain, liver, kidneys, spleen, lungs, blood, bones, fatty tissue, stomachs and intestines. The items on this list that would normally be consumed by humans, such as the liver, would have to be diseased or contaminated before they could be designated for pet food. Poultry by-products include heads, feet, intestines, undeveloped eggs, chicken feathers and egg shells. Other items counted as acceptable protein sources and included under "by-products" are dried animal blood and hair, dehydrated stomach contents from cattle and dried pig and poultry excrement. As explicit as the facts about pet food contents may be, you won’t find them listed on the label; the truth about these poisons is conveniently buried under the rubric "by-products." The primary ingredient in many dry commercial pet foods is not protein but cereal. Corn and wheat are the most common grains used but, as with the meat sources, the nutritious parts of the grain are generally present only in trace amounts. The corn gluten meal or wheat middlings added to pet foods are the leftovers after the grain has been processed for human use, containing little nutritional value. Or they may be grain that is too moldy for humans to eat, so it’s incorporated into pet food. Mycotoxins, potentially deadly fungal toxins that multiply in moldy grains, have been found in pet foods in recent years. In 1995, Nature’s Recipe recalled tons of their dog food after dogs became ill from eating it. The food was found to contain vomitoxin, a mycotoxin. Perfecting the Contamination – The nutritional needs of pets are hardly the concern of most manufacturers. Commercial pet foods are usually concocted with the profit margins in mind, and nothing else. A new food may be tested to see whether animals like it (eat it in large quantities), but not whether it is good for them. For dry foods, ingredients (meat meal, by-products, cereals) are mixed together with water or steam, pushed through a machine called an extruder which gives the food its shape, then cooked at high temperatures and dried. To make the food palatable to your pet, fats—often the tallow separated during the rendering process—is sprayed on after the food is dried. Wet foods are made from raw ingredients ground up with additives and preservatives. "Chunky" canned foods are run through an extruder to produce the look of natural meats. Harmful chemicals and preservatives are added to both wet and dry food. For example, sodium nitrite, a coloring agent and preservative and potential carcinogen, is a common additive. Other preservatives include ethoxyquin (an insecticide that has been linked to liver cancer) and BHA and BHT, chemicals also suspected of causing cancer. The average dog can consume as much as 26 pounds of preservatives every year from eating commercial dog foods. The manufacturing process destroys most of whatever minimal nutritional content remained from the dubious list of ingredients. Even when the companies include more healthy ingredients at the outset, manufacturing depletes the nutritional value. "Processing is the wild card in nutritional value that is, by the large, simply ignored," states R L Wysong, DVM, a veterinarian who founded Wysong Corporation to produce healthful pet foods. Proteins, enzymes, vitamins and minerals and fatty acids present in the foods can all be altered or destroyed by the manufacturing process, leading to nutritional deficiencies in the pets eating these foods. Nobody’s Watching the Pet Bowl—No consumer agencies are looking out for your pet’s health interests. The pet food industry is virtually unregulated regarding food composition. In fact, information about the poisons in pet foods is not easily obtained; hence its shock-value when it’s finally revealed to the unsuspecting public. The problem is that only the label, not content, of pet foods is regulated. The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), a group of federal and state bureaucrats, define the ingredients listed on the labels of pet foods, but they do no testing on the foods themselves and have no enforcement authority. So don’t expect their semantics to keep your pet healthy. The United States Department of Agriculture, a government agency you might think would be watching the pet food industry, only oversees food for human consumption, letting pet food makers off the leash. The Food and Drug Administration’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (FDA/CVM) concerns itself mainly with labeling: manufacturers must substantiate any health claims they make for their pet food, but they aren’t asked to prove that their food is not quietly toxic to pets. While the FDA/CVM can prohibit an ingredient’s use if it is proven detrimental to health, they do no ingredient quality testing on pet foods, so how will they ever know? The claims of "complete and balanced nutrition" on many commercial pet foods are based on AAFCO nutrient profiles. What isn’t addressed on the label is the quality and bioavailablity of these nutrients. For instance, the label may state that the food contains a "minimum of 65% protein," but is it clean and can it be absorbed? The labels will never tell you. "Although the AAFCO profiles are better than nothing, they provide false securities," states Quinton Rogers, DVM, a veterinarian with the Department of Molecular Biosciences, Veterinary School of Medicine, University of California at Davis. "There is virtually no information on the bioavailability of nutrients for companion animals in many of the common dietary ingredients used in pet foods." 110 Million Sick Pets?—There are an estimated 55 million dogs and 63 million cats living in American households. Given the appalling condition of most commercial pet foods, it’s a wonder there are any healthy pets walking around anymore. "Nature never designed canine or feline kidneys to handle the volume of impurities that come their way," states veterinarian Al Plechner, DVM, author of Pet Allergies. "The result is fatigued, irritated, damaged and deteriorated kidneys after several years of life. Left untreated, the toxic buildup leads to vomiting, loss of appetite, uremic poisoning and death." Recent studies have shown processed foods to be a factor in increasing numbers of pets suffering from cancer, arthritis, obesity, dental disease and heart disease, comments Dr Wysong. Dull or unhealthy coats are a common problem with cats and dogs and poor diet is usually the cause, according to many veterinarians and breeders. The AAFCO nutrient profiles may play a role here, in the "balanced" nutritional levels they recommend may be inadequate for an individual animal. It is estimated that up to two million companion animals suffer from food allergies. Dr Plechner believes that the commercial pet foods are a primary cause and can contribute to a host of health problems. "Among pets, there is a widespread intolerance of commercial foods," he states. "This rejection can show up either as violent sickness or chronic health problems. It often triggers a hypersensitivity and overreaction to flea and insect bites, pollens, soaps, sprays and environmental contaminants." Feline urological syndrome, a chronic condition similar to cystitis in humans (characterized by frequent urination with blood in the urine), is an increasingly common and potentially fatal illness in cats. It has been linked to elevated levels of ash and phosphorus, two substances commonly found in commercial pet foods. High iodine levels are seen as a contributing factor for thyroid tumors in cats. "New diseases are being discovered that are linked to ‘100% complete’ diets," states Dr Wysong. These include "polymyopathy (a muscle disorder) from low potassium levels, dilated cardiomyopathy (heart muscle disorder) from low taurine levels, arthritic and skin diseases from acid/base and zinc malnutrition and chronic eczema from essential fatty acid malnutrition," he reports. Given the high possibility that your favorite pet foods may be slowly poisoning your cat or dog, it’s crucial that you find brands you can trust to be animal friendly. by Dawnjaness Nutrition Advice reply to T by Dawnrest I saw this question somewhere before, maximum nutrition is the same story. It is not human grade ingredients or meat. A long list of poor quality ingredients fall under the title of MEAL in most dog foods. If you saw the process to make this, you would not feed it to any living creature. It is better to add your own meats and/or use plain grains if you can not afford foods such as Wellness or Barf diets. It is not worth it to pay more and get the same food in the end process or worse. Human grade vegetables, meats, vitamins, and fruits, or plain grains possibly with the above added, or barf diets if feasible, are a good choice. |
| Oxygen by Taylor Bros. There are a few therorys on building more oxygen in the blood.One is products like cell food which claim that cellfood generates oxygen by splitting the water molecule thus increasing oxygen in the body at a cellular level.In short inceasing your vo2 max. It becomes kinetic energy. Ether theories are live high train low this study was used on athletes. Might explain mountain mans success.There are some things you can do to increse your dogs lung power. Play ball up hill making him run down hill to get the ball then running uphill with the ball in his mouth. This teaches him to breath with something in his mouth while working you get the point. DMG reply to G Skull by Dawnrest For dogs too. N,N-Dimethylglycine HCI - It functions as a methyl donor, it is a natural nutrient, it is found within the cells, it is produced from choline and betaine, it can be purchased with and without dextrose. Its popularity was rapid, now it can be found in other products too and various brands or strengths. 1500 seems enough. Oxygen reply to Taylor Bros. by Dawnrest All the aspects of conditioning an animal to increase wind such as Sprints, Swimming, Running, Walking, Weight Pulling, Rubbing, Springpole, Flirtpole, Catmill, Slatmill, Carpetmill, etc.. And certain substances such as Potassium Magnesium Aspartate to increase oxygen flow, B-Complex, B-12, Liver and Iron to increase Packed Cell Volume and Hemoglobin, Red blood cell count, E.P.O., Canine Red Cell and other blood builders, proper Health and Nutrition while increasing oxygen supply including certain derivatives, other products and foods, etc.... Hard work, time and devotion. HARD WORK, TIME, AND DEVOTION reply to G Skull by Dirty Bird It is very important to pay attention to those last words "Hard work, time and devotion". Supplements can play a role in the conditioning of an animal, but you have to be careful and make sure that you don't use them thinking that they will carry you through. Cutting corners in conditioning and relying to heavily on supplimentation can and will catch up to you. I have seen many good dogs come up short because of the lack of proper conditioning. IT AIN'T EASY. HARD WORK, TIME, AND DEVOTION reply to Dirty Bird by G Skull I hear u D Bird. One thing i was taught at an early age was good things don't come to those that aren't willing to work hard. I don't have a mill & have no plans on having one anytime soon so you can imagine what i'm willing to do put them in good shape. I myself am close to 8% body fat. Believe me i have never been given anything for free but hell you can almost call Dawnrests knowledge the first so i will definately take what i can get. Good luck to you & stay safe. |
| Effort and expertise reply to Anonymous by Dawnrest Your not wasting your time, proven by the fact that you ask questions. Those lines can bring any or everything you wish depending on the individuals and your expertise. There is related ancestry in both. They have been crossed in the past and often Red Boy crosses have some old J.R.Loposay in them. Teal, Burleson, Medlin, Loposay, Hampton, Bass,... all were close. The amount of effort you're willing to bring to the forefront is the question. |
| Salmon Oil reply to Newbie (bulldog64) by Dawnrest Some other products and supplements useful for healthy skin and coat condition are; Omega Fatty Acids, Ecsapentanoic Acid, Gamma Linolenic Acid, Linatone Oil, Lipiderm, Nutritional Yeast, Biotin, Flax Seed Oil, Kelp, Sunflower Oil, D-Alpha Tocopherols, Zinc, Beta Carotene, Wheat Germ Oil, etc.. Salmon (Fish) Oil is great for skin and coat, skin flaking, hair shedding/hair growth and 'Heart Health'. Other fish products have many uses as well, such as shark cartilage. Some of the above list is superb for a glossy, high sheen, healthy coat. |
| The good ole days! by anonymous Dawnrest resources is like tasting the past! English and Scottish brews and Bulldogs. Times are changing and changing fast! Old flavor is here; In grogs, ales & dogs. |
 |
| Bob Ackel & Ackel's Nickodemus (Nick) by Dawnrest Fourth Match - 1974 - Vic Alvarez' "BLACK MAN" vs Bob Ackel's "NICODEMUS" Both dogs meet in the center of pit and both fighting neck and ears. Vic's dog called BLACK MAN, natural ears, while Bob's black dog has cropped ears and is called NICODEMUS. Black Man seems to hold more often and longer, but the fight is even for first few minutes, and at 4 minutes, Black downs Nick and goes into shoulder, and seems to be the stronger dog, and starts keeping Nick down most of the time, although Nick seems to be in holds, even though down. 17, Nick turns and is called. 24, Still the same, Black Man is the stronger and more agressive, but Nick is still trying, mostly from a down position. 30, Black Man has slowed down, but is still top dog. 37, Nicodemus seems to get a little stronger and is finally top dog, both dogs going mostly for the shoulders. Black Man seems to be the harder biter. 40, Black Man has run his string and is down, but is still trying. 43, Pick-up, Nick to go and does, true, but goes down, Nick seems to have found his second wind, and has taken over completely. 50, Vic gives up, Black Man tries to scratch but falls on his face, but still looking at Nick. Nicodemus would have scratched but Bob held him back and stopped him. Black Man appeared to have done more damage by biting harder. Winner: Bob Ackel's NICODEMUS Also present were Balky, Cheek, Glover, Hartsell, Hopkins, Stinson, etc.. Stinson & Glover's Tuffy won again at this show. Mr. Bob Ackel's Nicodemus (Nick) 2xw also won a Best in Show. It is known how extremely tough Ackel was on his dogs and accordingly the son of Nicodemus, Ackel's Hammer 1xw and Hammer's son, Ackel's Spike 1xw along with Ackel's Foots named from fancy foot work and B. Hall's all time favorite Hall's Foots, and Ackel's Bojangles named as he could squaredance, were well respected in his area as was Mr. Bob Ackel (Mr. Bojangle). Bob enjoyed the lyrics in Bob Dylan songs. He stayed in the Texas area and was friends with many including Stinson and King Glover. Alvarez, Boudreaux, Hall, Hammonds, Romero, and many more have and can attest to the honest quality of dogs he kept. F. Boudreaux liked the Ackel bred dogs which had either old Boudreaux crosses or close related foundations in them and he owned a couple Ackel dogs, one crossed with old Red O'Connor (Redmar) and Earl Tudor. J. Kelley had good luck with old Ackel and Powell crosses. Bob used dogs bred from Carver, Creel, Hernandez, Heinzl, Boudreaux' Sampson and Eli, etc.. Bob Ackel's Nick is pictured on page 36 of the 1976 book, This is the American Pit Bull Terrier by R. Stratton. A good example of Bob Ackel's fine breeding program is in 1980's Sporting Dog Journal, Pit Dog Report and Scratchline. Provided by Dawnrest in memory of friend Bobby Ackel, the great Nicodemus and his son Hammer, from conversing and show news. |
| . |